The border between Egypt and Sudan has now been closed for a while and the only way to cross it is by the weekly ferry through lake Nasser. We were at the harbour at 9 a.m. although we knew the ship doesn't leave until late afternoon, that's the rule if you want to be in it. Mr. Salah, who helped us with tickets and customs also introduced us to the captain, which turned to be very useful (read good cabin with a view).

During the long waiting we watched how the boat was heavily loaded. We saw hard workers work hard, we saw policemen decelerated by the sun and two misplaced japanese tourists with their Lonely Planet trying to find the way out of Egypt. One cannot imagine how much goods they can squeeze into this boat. Ability by necessity.

At 6:14 p.m. the captain honked the foghorn and we were off. Up the Nile. The Landy was not actually on the ferry, but placed in between tons of food for Sudan on a barge attached by ropes to the passenger ferry. In the middle of the night the engine of the ferry idled, men were shouting loudly and the sound of metal against metal instantly erected us from bed. Horror! The attached barge was an "ex attached" barge and our Landy was disappearing from our view into the dark night. Later on we found out that the barge had a captain and was now navigating by itself. Not suitable for people with heart disorders.