We sailed through the Amazonas river on a truck barge for 4 days, it was a great experience (especially for Helle since she was the only woman aboard…!)
See all the pictures here
Archive for February, 2008
A lot of things have been said about Colombia, mainly that it is a dangerous country to travel through on your own. We had our moments of doubt and were certain that transition through to Venezuela would be the sensible thing to do.
We convinced ourselves that while keeping close to the main roads and only drive during daylight, we would be safe. This reassuring made us alter our direction despite rumours of road blocks, guerillas and kidnappings and head on to the northernmost city on the South American continent; Cartagena.
Starting off the second day went fine until about five kilometres out of town… A long snake of cars, busses, trucks and even horsecarriages queued up in front of us - our passage north was blocked by some of Mother Earths droppings - a huge pile of dirt and passing would not be possible for at least five hours! We conferred with some locals and went off the main road and continued on a secondary road.
The road was mountanious and winding, but fine - for a while, then torment went loose. Graveled roads and endless roadworks concluded in numerous hours of driving anyway. However the marvelous landscape and the picturesque villages lining the road like a string of pearls made up for our wretchedness. The day had reached the time where the sun turns slightly orange and discovering of a safe place to stay was vital.
Some time went and a big banner arching the road caught our attention - Hotel Real Dinastia - you place in heaven. No immediate signs lead us to this sanctuary and we took the first possible road and discovered a consealed steep driveway lined with big white Greek columns which took us to a “luxury” compound caressed by vast land and high trees. We ended a long driving day by cooling off in an enormous pool edging a hillside where we grasped in our minds, the fantastic view of the mountains surrounding the valley.
Trusting in sheer luck we continued “fearlessly” towards the north. The winding roads never seemed to end and time was not on our side. Hours before sundawn we started our search for a place to stay. Hotels was not abundantly found at the Colombian countryside and we prepared ourselves to drive through to Cartagena inspite of the fact that darkness would be our close traveling companion for quite some time.
Adrenallin was about to brim over in my veins each time we had to stop for road toll or the military forces in the dark. The light was slightly enough to lit the passage and shape silhuettes of oildrums and armed soldiers blocking the road. During the day this is nothing to be concerned about but somehow the dark intensifies these situations and makes you feel exposed.
The lack of signs made us wonder if we were on the right track until we saw the purpur light illuminating the line where the sky appears to meet the Earth - Cartagena was within our reach - safe!

Mountains and rivers in Colombia

Helle manages to find the most expensive bar in town, seats gracely and order an exotic brunch containing a mixture of tropical fruits, fresh yoghurt with extra Californian honey on top and an asiatic Tchai tea.

In order to afford Helle’s way of travelling Mario have to buy water from a street seller.
We’ve heard it all, we was going to be kidnapped, terrorist would block our road, thieves would rob our money and the devil itself would come secretly at midnight and put soda in our Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve.
Well…, a week has passed now and we’re still alive, we didn’t find anything but great landscapes, friendly people, good atmosphere and a fantastic hidden pearl: Cartagena.
A little girl is sitting glued to the television. She is like in a trance, she cannot hear you - and out of your reach, she is amongst weird animals. Tell her to go there - she would stare at you and say: unthinkable, unreachable - like the moon…Things change and here we were where everyday was a new unbelievable adventure seeing amazing creatures on their special place in the world. We went from one hemisphere to the other twice whilst criss-crossing between the islands.It was not the fact of being on a fantastic yacht for a week, neither the food - not even the excellent group we were - it was the mere thought of being there - voyaging the vulcanic islands of Galapagos.
The Blue-footed Boobies are perhaps the most known birds of the Galapagos Islands, and not without a reason.
These birds are unique, graceful and beautiful and so incredible tame that you can approach them and get as near as face to face.
They were of course my favorites and I tried to imitate them (see the pictures here).
This has to be the best snorkelling of my life…! Beating by far Cuba, Mozambique, Zanzibar, Brazil and all the other turbid estuaries I’ve been in.
We saw hundreds of different color fish and sea plants, been playing with sea lions, touched white-tips sharks and even saw a Galapagos shark rapidly swimming by. (VIDEOS TO COME)

Of course how to forget the most exotic of all, the very rare Blue Argentinian Bearded Whale


The whole group with Maria the guide on the left
There are no good holidays without a good group, that’s a fact and we were very concerned and worry when we booked our tour. You see, we are independent travellers that always travel on our own, never depending on anyone and always doing what we want and on top of that Mario had never been on an arranged tour before, that’s why we are overlanders on our own vehicle.
What a release when we arrived at the boat and found out that we were only 10 passangers out of a maximum of 16, and all of the group were independent travellers, very homogeneous ages and all very good people with great sense of humor. We been very very lucky and want to thank them for a great week together.
Please meet the bastards:
There are several classes of boats navigating the Galapagos islands, depending on your budget you can choose between the “Economical” tours up to the “Luxury Class” and “Exclusive Cruisers”. We wanted of course to travel cheap but not so cheap as the week away from our car had to be a nice holiday from our 4 months road tour through South America.
So we decided to use a little more money and booked a 8 days tour on a “First Class” boat, the Archipell II; what a great decision…! This catamaran is way over its class and it should cost much more than it was quoted.
So for anyone out there planning a tour to the Galapagos this is the boat to pick, you won’t regret.
So we took finally the decision and flew to Galapagos, despite the very expensive prices it was the best spent money of the whole trip.
You need to fly from Ecuador to Baltra which is the airport of the islands 1000 km away from the mainland, from there you either travel on your own from island to island or you pay at arranged “all-included” boat trip that takes you around. Guess what..? we took the last and forgot all about stress-reservations-etc-etc.



















































































